Turning Archive 2006

cracked bowls *PIC*

Keith Tompkins
>A poll of sorts...I posted a rough sketch of a bowl blank with the pith area situated at the rim. This area is end-grain, and will move radially as it dries. If the bowl is going to crack, it is usually in this area.

A blank with the pith situated with the pith in the base, such as is common with natural edge bowls, eliminates this radial movement. The blank may crack in a straight line across the bottom, if at all.

I turn most of my bowls with the pith towards the base, and have very few failures due to cracks.....(if I don't want a nat. edge, I remove it, which wastes some material)A larger blank is required to turn the same size bowl, but my success rate is good.

Anybody else's experiences similar?

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