Rodney
Thank you.

So, from your description, it seems to work on green wood without the soaking and subsequent drying required of either the pentacryl or alcohol method. Of course I'm not sure what "fairly green" means but if it stops cracking and warping with just a paint on coat after turning then it seems to be worth the effort and it seems to take an oil finish.

I guess I was more interested in it's properties with regard to stabilising punky wood and how that turned after treatment. I'm currently trying a polycryl soak on some wild cherry that was killed by the root rot fungus and has some soft spots in the center. Don't have any data yet as it still has to soak a couple more days. According to the directions, it has to soak for a week for good penetration then dry out a bit before turning (of course they don't specify how long as it would depend on the piece). I am wondering if it is going turn out to be like the "hard plastic" mentioned by Mike Foster in another part of this thread but I suppose I'll know at some point in the future. I was hoping to be able to compare with your experience with turners choice but it appears that you aren't using it on punky wood.

As the wood seems to take up a fair bit of the polycryl it's going to add cost but your method with the turners choice doesn't sound like it would add much cost when used to prevent cracking in green wood. In addition, turning to completion and finishing the next day is faster than the other methods of rough turning - drying - finish turning.