Hand Tools Archive

Laziness and learning...

David Weaver
..when what you like is something that nobody else really likes!!

I like the gradual bow on most of the chisel that I make (it's not hard to make them flat, though). So far, that's 1 for me and zero for anyone else! Other than parers for me, the rest will be straight.

Bill mentioned that the gradual bow over the length actually causes him to do the opposite of what I like it for - it causes him to overcut the base line.

As far as laziness - when I make the chisels, instead of cutting the bevel on a fully hardened chisel, I cut most of it on an annealed chisel (but not so shallow as I'd normally use, as too gradual and shallow and the cycling of temperature in tempering could temper the edge more than the rest of the chisel). So, out of laziness, I cut that first angle freehand on a belt grinder most of the time (the belt grinder doesn't have any rest, let alone even one at 90 degrees). After hardening, I chase the bevel back a little bit but not as much as I should/would and have been a bit thoughtless about not doing that as I'd pop off "it's a minute or two per chisel", but it may not be a minute or two without a coarse wheel or CBN wheel to reset the bevel fairly easily.

I'm sure there are some crisp edges on the chisels I've sent out (the kind you find on the japanese dovetail chisels, and slightly less than the angled apex on LV's chisels, but they are crisp 90 degree angles).

I think I've gathered the consensus is:
* please make the bevel angle shallow rather than leaving that for someone else to chase back
* break the corners with a deburring wheel
* straight chisel backs
* length preference is all over the board, from short to about 5 1/2-6" below the handle (which is probably not common - an inch or not here makes a big difference in how the chisel feels - especially for anyone who likes to grab blades).
* forge welding the bolster (that's coming soon)

I've knocked the bolsters back trying to fit handles, and one of the reasons that I like to send these with handles is so that the handles are seated and there won't be an urge to tap the ferrule end of the chisel when handling as the taper goes the other way and it'll just get hammered loose easily.

(nobody yet has said "could you make a socket chisel like LN? :b - it's only a matter of time).

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