David Weaver
OK, washita edge with no buffer zinging off the wire edge (toothpaste would follow this).

"complete" is a whitening toothpaste (gritty) with mouth wash (stinky) added to it.

(this is also without any bevel work. The alternating back and forth of working the back and bevel prevents the wire edge from being so large).

Now, after crest complete - almost a minute. no black in the crest (on white pine). It did shine the metal up a little, and the stropping action was achieved, but it could've just been the white pine base that did this. since this was supposed to be a finish step, I worked back and forth to remove the wire edge.

To check to see how fast dursol would clean this up, I used white pine (this pine is just too soft - it's low density) and I couldn't really lean on it. Nonetheless, 10 seconds on the back and then 25 strokes on the bevel side freehand effectively makes the iron sharp.

Too much pressure combined with the too soft backer and the iron digs into the pine and cuts a sliver off.

Out of curiosity with this subpar performance, after taking a picture, I went back to the yellow pine lap that I used (much harder, but still soft compared to a metal lap or corian) and then 10 seconds of dursol - bliss.

This gives a good tip for dursol - don't use wood that's too soft. If you can't lean on it (cherry, SYP, etc, all OK) then no good.

(Sorry Mike, I don't have any scraps of MDF at the moment!!).

One last thought. Crest must have sugar or something similar in it - when it dries, it's STICKY. the iron needed to be washed off.

Dursol is still king. It's better than any finish stone that I've ever used of any type and doesn't even require follow-up stropping on leather (none was done here)