Hand Tools Archive

Subject:
testing linde A on SYP *PIC*

David Weaver
Just to see what its cutting strength is. In softwood, it's almost nothing. In harder substrates, you're likely to damage or deflect the edge more than its fineness. It's so impractically slow - maybe the buffer can do something with it in a stick.

Note that even with two thicknesses, spread apart (these just come apart if I try to hold them against a container and spread them out), you can see through them.

Note also that the knot in this piece of pine (which usually breaks out of the shaving) stayed in the shaving in a perfect slice - top left of the filler container.

This is with a late type stanley plane that doesn't adjust well and I gave up before the tip of the iron was completely finished by the linde A - it's just way too slow on wood.

Dursol is very practical and within closer striking distance of this than any natural stone is.

Nothing special about the iron, either. Probably 60 hardness O1 - one of my experiments gone sideways early on - I didn't get it hard enough to be way past good file hardness - I took the advice of too many forum jockeys and tried to heat it only to low red and then quench. It achieved this hardness out of the quench and I've left it as is. The performance is identical to an iron driven past and then tempered back, at least for planing and sharpening. I've since learned to go a little past heat suggestion if working by eye (it'll never hurt the iron in one or two heats), get bonkers hard and then temper back and you can hit a really specific hardness target.

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