Hand Tools Archive

Subject:
Re: Bevel-up plane with a buffed blade

David Weaver
Derek - take a plane that doesn't cut well at 55 degrees in a certain wood (if something doesn't plane at 65, there are better things to do with the wood than plane it).

Set up the secondary angle at 55, then give the blade a stiff (but even) buffing.

Then plane with it.

My point is, all one would have to do is maintain a secondary angle somewhere around 5-10 degrees short of the goal and then all of the benefits of the buffing are still there - no wire edge to deal with, far faster, removal of some of the tip so a job more likely to be complete.

It's better. The cocobolo billet in my second video was way too much for a 55 degree infill with a 4 thousandth mouth. You just couldn't sharpen enough times to make it work (it would've been fine, I'd guess, if a 10 degree back bevel was added to the infill). The ribboned bubinga is more demanding to plane than the cocobolo was and the block plane had no issues with it guesstimating 55 degrees and then buffing it steeper. It doesn't have to be an exact degree number, it needs to be enough. The idea of an exact degree number is really this, it's not just exactly what works - it's that plus some margin.

Except it'll be more inviting to do all of this without getting a guide out and learning to feel "about right" for nasty woods. beginners can apply the secondary with a guide until they get to feel, but all you have to do is suppose what the buffer does and experiment a small amount. It turned out, I had to experiment none.

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