David Weaver
Not suitable by itself as a finisher, but a refiner of finishing. Hard leather and pine can be considered similar, but I like softwood for more than light stropping more than leather. You can use it more like a stone.

Here's what the Green stuff (this is not graded chrome, rather the wax stick that is 70% or so alumina - it has some stray large particles in it, but is generally fine on average).

brand new corian kind of sucks for it because there's nothing to break tension on the surface. It's slow cutting, which makes the finish look finer than it really can be practically used and the larger stray particles still scuff the edge. sanded corian would probably work well (didn't try).

So, for something that works better and cuts a lot faster, I applied it to pine. It works several times faster, the result is at least as good or better at the edge and the harsh particles have less solid footing.

A couple of sample pictures to describe what this is actually good for. If you're using it for 10 hard seconds after a finish stone, but the edge isn't perfect, it improves things a little, makes the polish on what you're using more clear, but note the edge. It's better to use it to chase the edge back a little bit and then work the back some (This is just back work with a little bit of light work on the bevel side)

Used for another 30 seconds more on pine (the above picture is using it on pine, too), including some bevel side work.

Of course, far better is to use it after a stone that leaves an even edge.

Common on razor forums for people to say that the oxides and buffing bars give them inconsistent results, sometimes super sharp, sometimes not. People will spend hundreds or thousands of dollars on razors, but buying a $20 hand held microscope is a bridge too far, and they would quickly see that where they come up short is in the quality of the edge before the post-edge refinement.

This gives a chance to plug the buffer - what the buffer does quickly is to make fine scratches in huge volumes to remove this stuff from the edge. Even if the buffer is only used on the bevel side, the deep scratches on the bevel side are removed and the edge is refined reasonably well. Most deep scratch damage (where there is a break out around a deep groove) is at the edge and if it can be removed gently, then the area where the scratch terminates won't be nearly so big - just the groove sticking out through the edge.