David Weaver
....or maybe just one. What does the steel look like after you've buffed it. Is it a really bright visual polish wherever the buffer has been?

If it is, then winston's mention of the wax that ends up melted around the end could be an issue. If that doesn't solve it, then change angle, pressure and time on the buff.

Less angle, less pressure, less time - all will lead to less modification of the edge in terms of steepness.

Someone asked me on a youtube video if the blunted edge would pare the cheapest pine that I could find - the answer is two fold. With fat amounts pared out, any chisel will split this wood. But the uni edge is far better than 30 degrees flat when following that up to clean off the surface (a really low angle would probably work well for a short time).

https://i.imgur.com/2TAF19F.jpg

long story short, you should adjust until sharpness is better than you can get by hand - especially hair shaving sharpness.