Hand Tools Archive

Subject:
sort of....

David Weaver
The second method is to buff both sides but closer to the angle of the bevel that's already there, and with an attempt to pretend the buffing on the back is right at parallel to the back. Of course, the buffer will go over the edge a little bit and still round some, but we're trying to make sure it does that in a minimal way. Same on the bevel side. Just a little rounding happens on both sides.

We start with a thinner bevel than if we were just using stones, which gives us the room to do that.

My grade for this is both durability and feel (we already have the bevel side method that provides superb edge protection and mitigates any typical damage that spoils smoothing to finish - it feels different, like there's less clearance).
That's durability in feet, not in durability to silica and other contaminants.

At any rate, the first method feels slightly low clearance but is strong and will take fine shavings.

This second method is less strong, but still stronger than sharpening to a two-plane point, and it feels like an edge that saw stones and not the buffer.

Both work well, and both aren't that hard to get the hang of (But it may take a couple of tries).

The edge of this second method is still just barely visible as a tiny stripe instead of a very apparent one.

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