Hand Tools Archive

Subject:
Re: Eventually becomes an irrelevant question

David Weaver
that's true.

all other things considered, I found the japanese and V11 chisels to get through the wood a little bit slicker than the sorby, and just slighly better than the AI chisel, but in isolation, the difference may not be that much.

The average person may value how much more easily the softer chisel grinds and sharpens once the edge failure is removed and refer it over V11.

The other interesting thing with the japanese and V11 chisel is that they didn't feel quite as bad with some edge damage, but the reality is that would accumulate and eventually cause a problem. I was a bit shocked by the V11 edge photo at 25 (slick feel, lots of damage), less so by the AI (I could feel the damage) and shocked to see the damage on the 30 degree japanese chisel (lots of damage, still chiseling reasonably well).

What I got to learn with this is that once you start getting damage several thousandths thick, most people aren't going to do enough sharpening to get rid of it and it will be carried forward for a while, even when enough of it is sharpened out to not see it. When the honing rate of the metal halves, but the damage occurs at the same rate, then it really becomes a matter of using a partially stale edge all the time. I have excellent eyesight (better than 20/20, and closer to 20/10 at distance) - I cannot see very small uniform edge damage in any light angle that the microscope can still see well.

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