Hand Tools Archive

Subject:
two approaches
Response To:
Re: Strop ()

David Weaver
1) fine stone light round over (like the file chisel I sent you a while ago), and then strop (which I didn't do -that edge was just rounded over on an inexpensive dans "hard", not their really fine stones. Their hard is just a fine soft arkansas).

2) strop only

I've been rounding the tip of a chisel for a while and the same edge protection is had if it's done right (without much change in behavior of the chisel - maybe an improvement for the average person because it ensures the sharpening is completed at the edge).

It's much less physical work to do the fine stone than just a strop, and if there is a contaminant on the fine stone, you can easily feel it. On the strop, not so much.

The slower and finer the stone, the better (a broken in spyderco would be great. I use a japanese equivalent stone labeled "barber oil" that appears just to be a white alumina stone fused solid. Its work under the microscope shows that it's almost as fine as 1 micron diamonds, and about twice as fine as a completely dead dan's black).

https://i.imgur.com/eINT4NZ.jpg

quick compound on leather after this stone would negate the difference between either it or a hard ark, though.

physically duplicating the same though without the stone, though, is an obnoxious amount of work to do each and every time.

Leaving the file-chisel at a too-high hardness was chasing getting the white stone to cut finer and finer without leaving a wire edge.

The buffer just does an end around past all of that stuff, but a plugged in buffer may not please purists or work well outside the shop.

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