Hand Tools Archive

Subject:
Excellent video Winston, I might add one note,

Keith Newton
That a new buffing pad doesn't work as well as one that has been in use for a while. And it isn't necessary to add new compound every time you use it. It takes a while for the compound to permeate or fill the spaces within the fiber. Too much compound is just smearing the waxy compound around on the surface. There needs to be some traction for these ultra fine particles stuck on the surface to do the work. Pressing it down on a flat surface without corners while running ought to help charge the wheel.

I'm glad to see your setup and will need to get one of those little buffers for my axes. I've got a project coming up where we will be hand hewing some logs. I have an old broadax and double bit ax both of which needed a lot of work to bring back into shape. Wondering / researching what main bevel to try to achieve. I think it was the Kelly Perfect 3.5# info that said they used a rounded bevel. After having gone down the rabbit hole that William Duffield sent me down on the ax rodeo competitions, those guys are too protective, and I never found what they were using, but I'm sure it was a lot finer, and I'm sure they were only using some pretty soft wood. For the Ax though I'm betting the rounded bevel may have a lot to do with extracting the ax from the wood after its been buried with all the energy one can muster. I suspect it could become too stuck with a low angle flat bevel to pull out. It had not occurred to me how important this little micro-roundover might be for staying sharp longer.

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