Hand Tools Archive
.I find that most people who aren't hand toolers or professional fallers have kind of missing nerve endings when it comes to running a chainsaw.
I live in suburbia and only use a saw about once a year or so, but when using (50cc husky) the saw, I generally adhere to the same sense of laziness. I like the saw to pull itself into hardwood and run "about right", just like a hand saw.
We hit rocks and metal from time to time, and the resulting work (removing the damage) blasts away most of the chainsaw files in a single sharpening (And they don't cut very fast to boot). I cleaned up something in our community park last night and hit metal (probably from someone leaving a flyer in the tree).
Halfway through filing today, my file was spent and I was leaning on it, and I decided to pull out a slightly larger in diameter double cut round wood file as I can't my box of chainsaw files. To my surprise, the file cut the whole tooth profile (no need to push the gullet down separately) and filed about 3 times as fast as the chainsaw file.
I think I'm hooked. Chainsaw files are cheap - these little round files are probably 3x as expensive, but I think they would sharpen more than a chainsaw file and when the front edge of a tooth has rock damage, it takes a fraction of the time to work a tooth - 5 or 6 strokes (and no gullet creep).
Anyone else ever done this? I'll take a picture of the two files.
Where did I get the idea of using one of these files on metal? Easy - making plane irons. With unhardened metal, you need something relatively brisk cutting to file out a slot. I've not worn one out yet on plane irons, but they can be a bit aggressive there.