Hand Tools Archive

Subject:
Re: I took a nine day Sellers course

David Weaver
The deburring wheel is a bit strong unless it's needed to maintain a bevel out of laziness -

e.g., the incannel gouge, I carefully keep the bevel in shape with a deburring wheel and then finish it with the buff.

On chisels, just a shallow primary, a small secondary bevel on something like a 2000 diamond stone (ezlap 1200 if you use the setup that paul recommends - those stones settle in finer than their grit number) and about 3 or 4 seconds on the buffer.

No need to tend to wire edges or anything like that. Just a few seconds to refresh the secondary bevel on the 1200 diamond stone and then 3 or 4 seconds with a stiff hand into the buff.

If you're using a coarser stone for the primary, you can add 15 or 20 seconds of primary work each time you refresh the secondary bevel and just keep the secondary a constant size. Since the buffed part is tiny, you can remove it easily with the secondary honing.

There's something about the buffer that makes this super lazy and the sharpness is beyond anything I've done freehand in any reasonable period of time.

Deburring wheels are *really* fast and can change geometry quickly. The principle on an incannel gouge is a different (tending toward preventing any edge damage) because it's such a pain to remove chips, so a little more care on the deburring wheel is OK.

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