Hand Tools Archive

Subject:
perception of penetration?

David Weaver
Only wiley's prodding a few months ago forced me to measure my primary bevel (grinder rest being set at 90 degrees, and then freehanding from there, I have no clue and have just come to the shallower primary out of laziness).

The edge holds up better on my chisels than 28 or 30 degrees flat primary did, but with a very shallow primary, there is less resistance from the cut. Enough less that it's easy to take something like a harbor freight chisel and do the same cut that will neptune showed with his very long primary chisel.

I cut all of the shoulders to the line (I have always done them previously malleting) and none were chased appreciably low (as you're aware, if you use a more blunt edge, even paring with a narrow chisel, the marked line will get chased back and perhaps unevenly. not a lot, but it's annoying).

The harbor freight chisels are the same thing that aldi markets. They're tolerable. They are probably in the ballpark of robt. sorby chisels, but not nearly as pretty.

Somewhere in the past, I did something similar on one of the newer buck chisels that I ground the corners off of to go straight in to the end on half blinds, and then liked that chisel, too, better than the purpose made skews that I had, so I sold those.

...forgetting the main question here, though. I never noticed a significant increase in resistance other than the first trials, like mortising cocobolo in the smoother I've showed pictures of. I made a stanley fairly blunt and it held up well. When you're mortising a plane, the bevel gets to a cutoff point in cocobolo where it gets steep enough that it will shoot the chips out of the mortise instead of laying them over. I don't usually do that. Other than that instance, never noticed the extra resistance. The fact that the edge stays ideal through work would suggest less average resistance, anyway, even if initial was a tiny bit more.

What did you notice in terms of cut resistance?

Messages In This Thread

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