Bill Tindall, E.Tn.
It is important to deemphasize the primary bevel from the description.

The essence of the Weaver Bevel is to add edge durability to whatever primary bevel one is currently satisfied with. If someone is using a bevel of about 30 degrees, or a bit less, and getting chipping or folding at the very edge (maybe only seen under some magnification) the Weaver Bevel will lessen or eliminate these unfavorable dulling mechanisms.

In the case at hand I wanted to create a chisel just for chopping dovetail waste, thereby preserving my collection of bench chisels for jobs where extra sharp was required. This approach was not a novel idea I conjured, and hence to be easily dismissed. When I watched Will Neptune, my woodworking idol, do dovetails he did the chopping with a Stanley butt chisel ground at a more acute angle than his bench chisels.

Round 1 was preparing the Narex at 30 degrees and building drawers for two bed side chests of drawers(6total). One corner of the chisel chipped off and the edge was folded before the drawers were completed. Not a good start to my plane to prepare a chisel just for dovetails.

Round 2, inspired by David's description of the Weaver Bevel, I restored the 30 degree bevel which I was satisfied with for penetration, and added the Weaver Bevel to the tip. The result was simply astonishing. 6 drawers with ash, not mellow cherry fronts, and the chisel looks like it did when I started.

Anyone wanting to try it should understand that what is important is the shape of the first 0.010", or less, of the tip and not what the primary bevel is. It follows that if one whats to try it add the Weaver Bevel to whatever you do now. Later, if easier penetration is desired, experiment with the primary bevel which we will continue to call the "primary bevel".