Hand Tools Archive

Subject:
for japanese chisels ,too - no planes

David Weaver
I should add to this (i'm sure it's not easy to grasp what I'm getting at with this rabbit hole because it doesn't come with paint by numbers).....it's not just soft chisels that I learned this from.

I also use it on japanese chisels, as it's nice to keep the primary of those chisels in the high 20s, but you can get lots of chipping at the very edge. They are notoriously hard and don't take deep scratches from natural stones right at the very edge, so this is superb if you're using them to do something like chop half blinds (with minor malice -not dilly dally).

Translation of what that adds is if you have to chop 6 feet of dovetails in a given case (half blind or otherwise) you can do all of your chopping with nothing more than a finish stone nearby. And with an edge at the end that's about as good as the one that you had at the beginning.

If you see chipping in japanese chisels, the suggestion is often to set the whole bevel steeper - some advocating as much as 35 degrees. That's a lot of wedging work in chopping (Friction, etc, prying) and while it might protect the edge, it'll punish the chopper.

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Why I'm enamored with small rounding..
for japanese chisels ,too - no planes
The actual purpose of this...
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