Hand Tools Archive

Subject:
Re: Half Blind question
Response To:
Half Blind question *PIC* ()

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)
I saw at once what had escaped me before, the need to deepen the saw cuts that define the socket, either by over sawing as I see in antiques or by some variant of what Derek has showed by "chiseling". The walls are not near so nice to pare looking down on the socket.

Yep ... you got it now! :)

Anybody got ideas for making these "stopped" saw kerfs easily. I have been using a Japanese pull saw with the end cut off so the teeth go to the end. With short pull strokes I can get some depth at the stopped end but I still have to extend the saw kerfs to the bottom of the socket by chiseling.

For these short sliding dovetails, I leave them parallel ...

It is easy to chop out the waste.

For longer sliding dovetails, they are tapered.

In all cases, the sides are sawn at the angle (I made a guide with one side at 1:7, which is the same as my dovetail planes). There is a relief section at the end to enable the azebiki saw to drop lower. I would do this with a Western saw as well, creating a space for sawdust to go - otherwise the kerf with clog up) ..

As this was so wide and so long, I used a power router to remove the bulk of the waste ..

Use a chisel and/or router plane to remove the side waste, and then you can fine tune, if necessary, with a side rebate plane (Stanley #79 with angled depth stop) ..

These are recently taken photos from the hall table build along I posted a short while ago ...

Regards from Perth

Derek

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