Hand Tools Archive

Subject:
Re: Laziness..
Response To:
Re: Laziness.. ()

David Weaver
That's pretty much it. Apply the shellac right over wet stain or damp water based dye. No adhesion problems with either. Then use oil based stain as the oil for the process.

You can read about a more appropriate process pretty anywhere else (making a proper rubber to apply the shellac and using alcohol when the rubber starts to get dry).

I did use some 4f pumice to make a cake like layer to fill pores at the outset (when the oil based stain has more oil in the process than one would typically introduce intentionally).

No real elbow grease is needed, just circling and a charge of stain for the pad for every two of shellac or so. I skipped any alcohol in favor of a heavy cut of shellac and more oil.

I guess I'm most enamored just with how forgiving the process is right over a damp dyed surface or an oily stained surface, and there's no need for a clean shop as dirt gets rubbed off of the finish.

You can apply more elbow grease at the end if preferable to build a flat surface, but you can carry the leveling quality of the circles prior to that by adjusting the speed that you're moving the rubber. I recall George Wilson mentioning that the process is easier if you allow the rubber to move slow enough to do its job better.

I didn't use a proper rubber for these test pieces, just a scrap from a tshirt. On a larger panel, a harder bigger flatter rubber would probably speed things up and influence flatness better. The tighter and bigger the rubber, the less tendency it will have to reach into pores.

I plan to try this next on a mahogany and rosewood guitar.

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