Hand Tools Archive

Subject:
Re: clarification of hacksaw use

david weaver
Extra clarification on the hacksaw (as I think dremels are a waste of time, and fiddly with the disks).

if needed, secure the metal you're scoring under a piece of wood and cut up against it.

In my opinion, the lenox 18 tpi blades with no wave in the toothline are an essential thing to have in any woodworking shop. Sooner or later you'll cut something, they're bimetal and painted so if it takes forever for you to do it, no big deal (they won't rust). They're about $5 for two, and one on its own will literally do all of the metalwork for an entire infill panel plane (including comb cutting).

The scoring cut is not into the metals thickness, it's along its width. Easy, then file the edge. I've done this with old saws and new 1095 without issue, and use the same lenox blades to cut out plane blades.

You can just cut part of the blade and then bend and break it like you would with a dremel, or you can do as I do and just cut all of the way through.

Most other blades that I've tried are junk, even when they're labeled HSS, they will not tolerate cutting thin or hardened steel. The teeth will either break off or wear off.

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