Hand Tools Archive
I'm curious about the super surfacer because it's the closest thing, but it has two advantages
1) materially unlimited power
2) downforce - it can continue to deliver a clean surface after clearance is gone
I don't know what the heat implications are with it - the knife is part of a big metal assembly, but no clue how that works while the cut is going on (how hot the edge gets before the heat sinks into the rest of the machine).
Bill has a paper to be translated, but I think their conclusion was that alloy steels like M2 lasted significantly longer before clearance exited, but only the carbon steel blades produced a surface as good as, well, the carbon steel blade.
Both O1 and the tsunesaburo in clean wood have planed every stroke with a surface acceptable to be finished. None of the other blades have, though the defects were very minimal in beech.
In both maple tests, 3V and V11 developed little lines (before mineral destruction, then the lines weren't so little). I don't think it's a matter of bits not breaking off - I think the little bits just break off of the stuff closer to carbon steel in...well, much littler bits. The surface brightness drops pretty quickly, but that's just the initial edge leaving, and then they settle in.
That brightness is higher and lasted slightly longer with 3V, but it's a curse for two reasons:
1) if you were actually going to use it on purpose - it's transient. You'd have to sharpen all the time
2) the brighter the surface, the harder it is to hide anything.
While a super wet and reflective surface on maple looks neat, uniform and slightly less bright is a lot more practical to work with.
I'd imagine the few people planing to finish by hand will end up going with something that's the most similar at the first and last stroke rather than what's the brightest on stroke 1. Not because they're searching for a less perfect surface, but because it's just easier to work that way.