Hand Tools Archive

Re: Bevel prep?
Response To:
Bevel prep? ()

david weaver
Hollow grind high 20s in degrees (I do this freehand), followed by a secondary bevel in a guide at 33 degrees (larger than I'd normally make it - let's say, I hone it until it's "third hone" size for what you'd normally do, just to make sure there's support) and then 35 degrees for the final sharpening media.

I guess it shouldn't be a surprise that I have microscope pictures from this particular diamond plate, and they are pretty clear and uniform. At this level of magnification, the wire edge is gnarly.

The back of the iron is finished and then a back bevel applied with the 1 micron diamonds, again, to a point where it's bigger than I'd typically make it to ensure that the edge meeting front and back is free of defects. The back bevel ruler is about 1/2 mm thick.

I noticed the other day that I still have the original autocad pictures describing this method that a friend of mine provided when I first started woodworking. they are still on my wall. Talk about oblivious.

I never use this process in day to day honing, but it is cheap to apply (requiring only an eclipse type guide) and the average person who may question my results can go duplicate them.

It also removes me as the variable setting the angles, but allow me to tell you just how precise and repeatable my final bevels are by freehand method :b

(actually, someone pushed me to measure this last year, and they are within about a degree of each other, but someone will suggest a one degree difference could tip the balance).

I never hone a full bevel other than japanese chisels, and even on those, I bias the last and finest part of the sharpening process to round the tiniest bit of the edge. why? because the edge holds up better that way, but there isn't much metal wedge created with that, so there's no additional perceived resistance and performance of the chisel isn't affected. These kinds of biases are hard to communicate, so they're out for this test.

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