Hand Tools Archive

Subject:
Re: Kitchen cabinet molding
Response To:
Kitchen cabinet molding ()

david weaver
I have done far less of this than warren, but trying to find that profile online would cause me anxiety and anger. I've struck anything like that, but also agree with warren that making it part of the door rail would be easier because if you're doing it by hand, cutting it off of other stock and skimming the back of it with a plane upside down in a vise is just an extra step.

Whether the moulding is left on the edge of sticking and sawn off or done as part of a door part integrally, I'd do the following:

1) Plane a large facet off of the right side of the picture (over the cove) leaving only the hollow work to complete.
2) cut the bottom part of the curve (where it's tighter radius) with a short radius H&R
3) cut the remainder of the curve above with a wider radius H&R

It may be helpful to plow or scratch a small groove at the center of each cut.

That would leave some waste at the edges of the curves that I'd just plane off, inside the curve by scooting the larger radius H&R over for the final cuts, and on the outside curves any way you'd like.

The radius around the top/end of the moulding, you can do however it pleases you. I have better luck if I facet those areas first and then cut, then I can see the facets are even (and thus both ends of the moulding will match reasonably well) and do minimal work cleaning up the curve.

An alternative option is to make an open sided plane with that profile on the bottom and an iron to match. It would probably take an hour or two to make the plane and matching iron, but it would cut the cove in one pass.

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