Hand Tools Archive

Subject:
Re: Stanley #80 -Repaint?? OR...

John Aniano in Central NJ
David,

Wouldn't the combination of linseed oil, turpentine and the pigment asphaltum simply be an oil based paint?

I looked at my larder of stuff and found I had some Gilsonite-based asphaltum powder (#47600) from Kremer Pigments in New York. The package says it is soluble in turpentine and is sold as a black pigment. So, being soluble, maybe it wouldn't be so much a paint but a stain instead. Maybe a bit of both.

I went through some other older texts I have for "japanning" and there were recipes for many colors of japanning. "Japan Black", "Japan White", "Japan Vertigris", "Japan Red", etc. all depending on the pigment used. The black version in two texts showed an additional ingredient of burnt umber along with the asphaltum, linseed oil and turpentine. The umber would definitely make this a paint since it isn't soluble in any of the other constituents. Lastly, the addition of burnt umber introduces iron oxide into the mix and can act as a drier as well as a pigment.

And yes, I'd assume some metallic driers would speed the curing of the applied coating. I use Kremer siccative #203 (which I think may be manganese- or cobalt-based) for my oil finishes on my bows. I also use a light box to help get the curing accomplished.

Neat stuff and an interesting topic! I may just try this out and report back. I have a #5 plane that needs renewing. We can compare notes...

John

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