Hand Tools Archive

Re: Plane recommendation??
Response To:
Plane recommendation?? ()

David Weaver
Gosh, it's like 7 years of history have been erased.

I know nobody likes to hear it said like this sometimes, but ...'curly maple is not a difficult wood to plane', especially compared to curly cherry or some quartered woods.

In fact, if you are going to plane more than a little bit off of it, all of the other methods available are markedly inferior to a bevel down "cheap" plane like a stanley plane.

The original poster would be doing himself a disservice at this point to go any other route, not necessarily even from a cost perspective, but from a practical perspective in terms of planing wood and doing more than smoothing.

Sharpness, mouth size, angle, etc...all of those are fine, but a stanley plane with the cap iron set even with a mediocre effort will plane curly maple without tearout and without much in the way of sharpness. It'll literally do it all the way up until the point that it doesn't cut. If the plane is set just OK, you won't be able to generate tearout, even if you try. In fact, if you keep ratcheting up the shaving thickness, the ability to create any tearout at all will get further and further away.

I'm assuming scrapers were popular for veneer work, but never cycled around in the same volume as planes otherwise because they just aren't as good for much (I've had a bunch - the LN version, the veritas version, the stanley version, the LN small version..I don't have any of them at this point, but I do have a stanley 80 and a pull type scraper for floors - that's kind of nice, takes less damage on a hidden staple than does a plane).

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