Hand Tools Archive

Re: Quartersawn drawer sides--followup
Response To:
Quartersawn drawer sides ()

Wiley Horne--So. Calif.
Thanks so much to all, for taking time to respond to my small issue. You folks brought up some things I had not thought about. Interesting argument that Roger and Bill made about whether quartered/rift maple can even be found--I never see it, maybe because as Bill says, there normally are no hardwood 'center flitches'.

Some responses:

1. Oak or maple. Charles and TomD make the 'best practices' point, which is a strong argument. Sgian sorta does too, but cautions about mixing quartered and plain sawn with widely different shrinkage ratios (more or on this below). Bill, Steve, Bruce note that on the 3-1/2" drawers, movement will not be critical, and therefore whatever looks best can prevail. Patrick has noted big movement with plain sawn maple; Roger has used it without issue.
For me, Steve verbalized something that was bothering me, and in fact led to my original post. Which is that oak and satinwood don't look good together, and tended not to be used together historically. Bruce makes the same point. So I need an option to the oak, which will wait for another day.

2. Maple + satinwood. This is a light clear maple, which would look good. No cathedrals, so I don't think it'll cup outright, and it hasn't moved yet in varying weather. The rings are lying in a steep rift. The satinwood drawer fronts are rift verging on quartered. On Sgian's point, Ceylon satinwood has radial shrinkage of 5-6% and tangential of 7-8%, depending on who you consult.

3. Satinwood + satinwood? This morning I ordered from Gilmer's a big rift sawn turning block of satinwood that will provide another option, which is to make the front and sides of the same material.

4. Conclusion: Will choose between the maple and satinwood for the sides. Thank you all very much--every comment really does help.


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