Hand Tools Archive

Subject:
Re: Cap iron question-need data *PIC*

mark Hennebury
Hi Craig, your welcome. like you I experimented with handplanes for many years tweaking them and fussing with them trying to coax the best from them, and much of this info you tend to find on your own. One very important thing that I didn't figure out on my own and learned from the supersurfacers was to put the small 80 degree micro bevel at the front of the back-knife (chip-breaker) This helps tremendously in preventing tearout. I always used to sharpen the the chip-breaker to a fine edge so that the shaving would flow up over it. The small 80 degree micro bevel puts the brakes on that shaving allowing the knife edge to work. Also the Japanese style of traditional wooden hand planes have a hollowed out sole which puts a pressure line on the leading edge of the throat opening which helps keep things under control. The supersurfacer manufactures have combined a lot of research to making these machines work so well. Keep in mind also that the super tight tolerances are held on knives and back-knives that are over 13" long! some of these machines have much larger knives of around 28" long. It is quite incredible to use one of these machine and run ten foot long, foot wide Walnut or Cherry boards through them and see these beautiful full length and width shavings floating off, and to see and touch the super-slick bright, vibrant surface left behind. The hardest thing is to end up a some point having to throw out all the shavings.

© 1998 - 2017 by Ellis Walentine. All rights reserved.
No parts of this web site may be reproduced in any form or by
any means without the written permission of the publisher.

WOODCENTRAL, P.O. BOX 493, SPRINGTOWN, PA 18081