TomD
"They're getting caught right between the sharp edge of the blade and the front of the mouth. I have to reach in there with something sharp and dig them out."

Yeah well the blade is probably in too deep. It is a pretty easy to make a plane take a 1 thou shaving that is several times thicker than a page, which is normally around 4 thou. Unless your shavings are down to that point or less, then you can easily lesson the log jam by reducing blade projection. If you are already getting a shaving around the size you want, then the mouth could be opened a little at a time to insure you get the escapement you need. Whille one certainly doesn't need a caliper to make a plane I find it makes it easier to have some numbers.

"I'm not sure what I could possibly do about the wedge except maybe make sure it's seated properly and evenly across the iron."

You can make the back of the wedge just a hair hollow lengthwise. That will help keep the tip flush. You don't want the wedge to go down any nearer the edge than necessary because it closes the escapement.

"What is the effect of moving the chip breaker closer or further away from the sharp edge of the blade?"

If you move it too close it will stop the cut, and jam the plane. If you have it just right, the shaving doesn't curl, goes straight up, and if you aren't in the way falls over the planed surface. And/or you get an improvement in the cut. If you have it too far back, you can end up with not enough down pressure on the edge, or you can end up with the wedge no longer working. In most situations a chip breaker is not needed, I just use thick blades most of the time. If you have a really hard to plane wood then the CB can be part of a solution. There are a lot of things you can change to improve cut, and CB is one of them. But if you are not planing difficult woods, or are final finish sanding, they are seldom worth the trouble.

"Do you find that metal planes work better? If so, why did I work so hard making this plane?!"

I think wooden planes are generally superior, I prefer metal block planes, and other boutique uses. But in general there is not a practical performance difference. Wooden plane advantages are:

- lighter weight when doing a lot of work

- lower friction without need for wax

- warm to the touch

- cheap and fast to make, I can make one to the point of cut in 45 minutes

- Therefore customizable. Want a 40 inch jointer, with a 35 degree bade set, done....

- Faster to get the blade in and out for resharpening, and if your fingers hurt they are easier to handle

- Easier to set, once you get the hang of it, no backlash

- If you overload it the blade doesn't pivot and gouge, it just backs out.

- Consumer wise they can fulfill all the normal needs, other than being super popular around the woodworking water cooler