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Re: I'm confused
Response To:
I'm confused ()

Barry Irby
David, the original post said the stock would lay flat and which edge do you start with?

I agree that I start by flattening a face. Then move to an edge.

I left out some of the logic, trying to shorten the question. Working with air dried lumber, some of it's been in a open barn for years, some piled in my driveway under tarps for years, I start by rummaging through the piles and picking the pieces. At this point I don't have much stuff below five inches wide. I move the pieces into a climate controlled room in my house, adjacent to my shop. My next step is to cut it to length, but about four inches too long if I have it.

The shortening of the pieces, if they are warped goes a long ways towards straightening and flattening. I know you understand that a crooked 8' piece cut in half has far less warp than the original piece. If the pieces are flat and straight, I leave them longer to eliminate snipe. If you plane a piece, snipe only occurs on the ends, so if you can cut four or five pieces out of a piece after planing, you only have to watch for snipe on the end pieces.

I have done all sorts of things on the jointer. Taper table legs. Leave a very slight hollow on the edges for a sprung joint. and more. I try to leave maximum thickness with both the jointer and planer to allow for flattening the panels, sometimes to the point of skip planing stock.

And, I have used other methods, such as the straight edge and TS and I have a track saw. Those things work, but I have a tiny shop and they introduce another tool that is immediately in the way. I tend to reserve them for pieces so large it's easier to apply the tool to the wood rather than the wood to the tool. For my next trick I want to see if I really can cut a glue line rip with my track saw.

So, the question was, which edge first, convex or concave?

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