TWIN DRESSERS FOR TWIN DAUGHTERS
Bent lamination pulls ease opening drawers.
SHOP OWNER: Dewayne Baker
LOCATION: Vacaville, CA
I am a hobby woodworker and strictly build things for myself and my family. I strive to build heirloom quality furniture that will hopefully be handed down for generations. I learned the basics of woodworking in high school shop in the 1980s. Twenty-plus years later I decided to delve into the hobby and begin educating myself further and buying tools. I enjoy creating my own designs and I've always drawn my own plans. I would estimate I have over 500 hours of shop time invested in these two dressers. Woods used are cherry, maple and walnut.
The design of these dressers was inspired by and made to complement a sleigh style baby changing table I made for my twin daughters years ago. I don't care much for store-bought pulls and prefer to make my own. I have found it most convenient to be able to open a dresser drawer with just one hand and thought that the strength and beauty of a bent lamination pull would be well suited for this dresser project. The pulls are attached with walnut dowels. The drawer boxes are maple ply edged with cherry, riding on full extension ball bearing guides. Drawer box joinery is tongue and groove.
Joinery techniques for the project are pretty basic. A stile and rail bit set at the router table was used to create the frame and panel sides and backs. Each drawer compartment is separated by dust frames, which are plywood frame and panel construction and joined to the case sides with dadoes.
A web frame set in a rabbet at the top of the case assembly serves as a mounting base for the hardwood top, which is secured with desktop fasteners to allow for wood movement. The tops feature breadboard ends with walnut accent pins. Face frames are pocket screw joinery. Face and back frames are attached to side panels with a simple long-grain-to-long-grain glue up.
The finish I used starts with a seal coat of one pound cut of super blonde shellac. The shellac coat is allowed to dry overnight then buffed hard with 0000 steel wool. The next step is to apply two or three coats of oil and varnish mix, allowing each coat to dry overnight. I mix my own, which consists of equal parts of oil-based polyurethane, boiled linseed oil, and pure tung oil. The mixture is wiped on and allowed to stand for about 15 minutes before the excess is wiped off thoroughly with a clean soft cotton cloth. The mixture does not keep long and must be mixed fresh for each project. I allow the finish to cure for about five days then wipe on a coat of furniture wax.
. . . Dewayne Baker