ARTICLES & REVIEWS

John in rural Festus asked:  Just looking for a quick refresher before I tackle the mudding of our basement this weekend.

1) Use all-purpose mud because I'm new to this.
2) Sand with 100 grit after each of the three coats.
3) Start small (6 inch knife) and then widen (10-12 inch knife) the mud with each successive coat.
4) Apply the mud with the blade of the knife almost flat against the drywall and then scrape the excess with the knife's blade at approx. a 45 degree angle
5) Make sure the tape stays flat and tight when embedding it into the mud
6) And most importantly, keep a good attitude and have plenty of malt and yeast-based refreshments on hand.

Anything else that I might have forgotten?

Responses:

Dustmaker Mike: I went to Lowes and got a swivel head sanding block used for dry wall and a handle. They are only a few bucks and are worth it IMHO. I  taped a vacuum hose to it near the sanding block to catch the dust as it was made. Just make sure you have a dust filter installed in the Shop Vac because it will blow the dust all over the place (DAMHIKT) and it will make clean up worse. The sanding stick is great, especially for the ceilings. I found that regular 80grit paper worked best for the first couple layers. This vs. the screen type paper. The screen just seemed to clog up. Yes I needed the 80g because my drywall skills aren't the best.

Rob in Spring, Texas:  Use the premix mud in the BLUE box. It's a bit lighter and dries quicker. Also I like to mix it with a small amount of water. It makes it easier to work with. If you’re really brave try some of the 30, 45 or 60 minute mud. Saw some pro drywall guys do some work in my sisters house, put up the rock, floated and textured all in the same day. Texture was a spray on / knock down.

BubbaBob: Use more mud than malt/yeast based refreshment for best results....3:1 ratio is about right.

Brent Harral: Save yourself the most frustrating part and use nylon mesh tape instead paper tape, especially if you don't have a tape dispenser (banjo). Been using the nylon for years w/o a problem. You really shouldn't have to sand until after your 3rd or 4th final coat. NOW is the time to consider crown molding in the room so you can hack the inside corners where the wall meets the ceiling. Second most annoying aspect of drywalling, IMHO ;) I do it all with a 6" knife for some reason.

Lee Schierer: You can sand without dust using a stiff sponge that is damp. Rinse the sponge often for best results. No dust ever. They sell good ones in the tile section of Home Depot.

Wolf Kiessling: I vacuumed once after some dry wall sanding and ended up with a bigger mess than when I started. My filter wasn't as good as I thought. It was the first time I ever attempted dry wall work and I didn't get any advice so I paid the penalty. The funny thing was, while vacuuming I didn't even notice the mess I was making until it was way too late.

Gary Camp: I do sand between layers, may be a personal preference. Use drywall sanding screen, it’s made to fit the sanding blocks and doesn't load up nearly so quick as sand paper. More than well worth the cost.

Grant Smith: I do drywalling from time to time on a side job basis.

Here's what I'd recommend:

1. Fiberglass joint tape. Unless you do this every day, the paper tape is tough to apply right.
2. You got the knife sizes right...6" for the embedding coat, then next size larger for each successive coat.
3. If you have corners to do, buy yourself at least the inside corner trowel. I only use it for the final pass down the corner, not to apply the mud.
4. I don't sand between coats myself(or really much at all). I just use the next larger size knife (trowel) to scrape off the nibs and ridges. I am a firm believer that there is little need to sand, if you use light coats.
5. Get a stainless steel mud pan...much better than the plastic versions.
6. Thin the mud a little bit...pan by pan. Just a dribble of water in a pan of mud will make it spread MUCH easier. If you are getting bubbles in the mud as you apply it, press harder with the knife (trowel). Don't thin the embedding (first) coat.

I like the sanding sponges if you end up having to sand. No dust. Many thin coats are better than one thick coat requiring sanding. Perhaps the biggest rule about drywalling: Buy, borrow, or rent one of those light trees. The kind with 2-4 halogen lights. Point them at the wall you are working on. Your drywall comes out looking LOTS better under normal room lighting if you use brighter lights to do the work in the first place.

Tony Laros: For the first coat I use sandable Sheetrock 20. I don't know if it's a Canadian product or if you have something equivalent in the US. It dries in about 20 minutes, so by the the time you've gone around the room you can start the second coat with the premixed mud. Don't mix too much at a time. For inside corners and at the ceiling get metal corner bead with paper. This will make your job look like it was done by a pro. Beer is OK unless you're on stilts.

Angus Barclay: I've just finished yet another room in my house and have found this system works for me.

• Use fiberglass tape, not paper
  
• Use metal edges for the outside corners
  
• Use a "universal" mud (we call it plaster or stopping here).
  
• Use mud that sets rather than dries. Big difference in shrinkage rates.
  
• Apply first coat with 6 inch knife. It doesn't have to be pretty.
  
• Knock off highest ridges and lumps with a scraper or knife.
  
• Close all doors and windows (or suffer the wrath of SWMBO), put on a respirator and sand by hand - using 80 grit on a cork block.
• Switch on the portable halogen lights and aim them for raking light across the wall.
  
• Use a big broad plastering trowel (about 6 inch x 10 inch with handle on the back side) for the final skim coat.
• Close doors and windows, put on the respirator again and sand by hand again - very lightly - using 150 grit.
  
• Apply paint (a whole other process).
  
• Graciously accept compliments about how great the result looks and finally get back into real woodworking in your shop.

John Ergle First time I tried my hand at drywalling, I almost lost my religion on my first inside corner. Then I remembered seeing one of those "corner things" at the local Lowe's. Mad a mad dash to the store before they closed at 9 pm, and I'll tell you, that thing is worth it's weight in gold. Now the professionals who just did my new house didn't need or use anything like that, but for amateurs like me, that thing saved an awful lot of time and cussing.

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