I bought the bin
from Oneida since it was the ideal size (a low height yet it still has
a pretty decent capacity (35 gallon)), its top was self-sealing, it
was cheap, and there was free shipping from Oneida. I cut a hole in
the top myself. I used a 6" starter collar, cut tabs in it, riveted
it into place, and sealed it up tight with epoxy.
mounted to motor mounting board.
Note that all bolt heads are recessed.
The motor was mounted
to the motor-mounting board first (see blower page), and the hole where
the arbor pokes through was sealed with silicone.
As the pictures
show, originally the motor-mounting board was attached to two 2x4's
in the rafters. The bolts that mounted this board to the 2x4's had to
be recessed since the top of the blower housing would sandwich right
up against this board (see picture above). The motor mounting board
was connected to the 2x4's in the rafters with four 3/8" bolts and 8
nuts for safety sake (don't want these things vibrating loose). I bought
8 anti-vibration pads from McMaster-Carr, drilled 3/8" holes in them,
sandwiched one between the motor mounting board and the 2x4's, and put
one on top of the 2x4's between them and the 3/8" nut/washer that pulls
the motor mounting board up tight against the 2x4's. The idea was to
make a break in the wood-wood and metal-wood connections, which would
help isolate vibration and keep it out of the rafters.
mounted to motor in rafters.
The space between the plywood and
is from the anti-vibration pads
Then, the impeller
was slipped over the bushing and tightened in place (with lock-tite
on the set screws) about 1" below the surface of the motor board. This
would put it right where it needed to be in the blower housing.
heads of screws that attach
blower housing to top of cyclone.
Since I had a 14½" diameter access hole on top of the blower, I first attached the circular
piece of plywood within the top of the cyclone with screws from the
outside. Then, I set the blower on top of the cyclone making sure the
outlet pipe in the cyclone lined up with the blower inlet, and that
the bottom of the blower sat flat on the top of the cyclone. I screwed
from the top down - through the bottom of the blower to the top of the
cyclone - since this was easy to do through the 14 ½" access hole. I
put a bead of silicone around the outside of the cyclone cylinder where
it meets the blower housing.
foam on top of blower housing
to seal against motor mounting board
Finally, I bought
50' of ½" foam strip that is about 3/8" thick before compression from
McMaster-Carr. I put a circle of this around the 14 ½" diameter hole
that would compress up against the motor-mounting board and seal that
joint, yet still allow it to be taken apart. You can see this piece
of foam in the picture of the blower on top of the cyclone. At this
point, the blower/cyclone assembly was bolted to the motor mounting
board with four 3/8" bolts and fender washers. These bolts were
tightened well enough to significantly compress the foam on top of the
the dust collector was turned on for the first time, I discovered that
the anti-vibration pads were utterly useless. They reduced vibration
slightly to be sure, but the entire area around the dust collector vibrated
like crazy when this thing was on. The master bedroom is located right
above the shop, so this would not do.
I pondered making
a big stand and mounting the whole thing right to the cement floor.
This would interfere with emptying the bin, however. So, I decided to
fashion wall hangers out of angle iron. This would allow me to bolt
the unit to the poured basements walls, which would eliminate vibration
in the rafters above and diminish the overall cacophonic sound this
unit sends through the house. See the discussion below for details on
the Second Installation.
Once the cyclone
was in place it was just a matter of connecting it to the ductwork,
and using about an 8” piece of 6” flex to connect it to
the drum. I have yet to experiment with lining the bin with a bag so
it is even easier to empty the dust, but I plan to soon. I used about
two feet of 6” flex to connect to the right end of the filter
housing. However, I found in my attic several lengths of 6” flexible
insulated ductwork, and thought about using this to connect the blower
to the filter. This is supposed to reduce the noise by about 5-8 decibels.
It wasn’t terribly loud in the shop, only in the room above where
everything was vibrating since the motor was mounted in the rafters.
Once this problem was solved with the wall hangers, sound throughout
the house was greatly reduced. As well, when I put my ear to the blower,
it seems to me that more noise emanates right from the actual blower
(right through the sheet metal sides of the housing) rather than coming
out the blower outlet and through the clear 6” flex hose. So,
it didn’t seem to me that changing the hose which connects the
blower to the filter was not going to significantly reduce noise. I
have elected not to experiment with the insulated duct muffler.
brackets with a close-up of the welded joints
The impeller falling
off the motor gave me additional motivation to redo the installation
to eliminate the vibration. As mentioned, I used angle iron to create
basic 90 degree angle brackets capable of supporting the entire weight
of the cyclone and blower (this probably amounts to around 100 lbs.).
I used Tap-con screws to attach 2x4’s to the cement wall –
I had to do this because my mounting procedure had to span the window
opening you can see in the pictures. I made the brackets in my shop,
bolted them together, ensured that they were the right size, and took
them to my machinist friend to weld all the joints. This may or may
not have been necessary, but it will make this set-up even more secure.
The 2x4’s and the brackets were painted the same machinery grey
as the cyclone.
to get into the details of this second installation, but hopefully the
pictures and my explanation will help a little. The angle brackets had
to be far enough away from each other so that the blower housing can
fit between them. For me, this meant about 27”. Now, the motor
mounting board is not nearly that long, so I had to effectively extend
the motor mounting board so it would reach the brackets. For this I
used 2 1/4” solid oak, since these would bear the weight of the
entire dust collector, and put the unit at about the same height it
was at before.
board mounted to oak hangers with anti-vibration pads
Notice some bolt ends cut off
so they don't hit oak hanger
I first mounted
these two oak hangers to the motor mounting board using Grade 8 bolts,
the anti-vibration pads, and two nuts for security (see top picture
at the side). Then, I drilled 3/8” holes at the two ends of each
oak hanger, lifted that assembly, held it in its place between the brackets,
marked a hole on each bracket where the new 3/8” holes were located
on the hangers, drilled the four holes on the brackets, and bolted the
oak hangers to the wall brackets.
Note that some of the long bolts
that squeeze the blower housing together had to be cut off on the top
so they didn’t protrude above the motor mounting board and run
into the oak hangers (see bottom picture).
& impeller mounted to new wall brackets
At this point, the
procedure was the same as it was during the original installation. I
attached the impeller (this time with hardened steel set screws and
a roll pin – see the Blower page), affixed the blower housing/cyclone
assembly to the motor mounting board, and connected the cyclone to the
collection bin, filter housing, and the network of ducts throughout